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PostPosted: Fri Feb 20, 2015 7:57 am 
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Koa
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Glenn_Aycock wrote:
I've never used one of these types of benders, although I've seen commercial ones in the Taylor videos. I realize they are probably much more consistent, but how long does it take to bend a side? I recon it takes 30-45 minutes to heat my bender and bend a pair of sides by hand.


It takes 3-4 minutes to execute the bend, and then I let the side sit at 280 degrees for 20 minutes. If I'm bending EIR, one cycle Is enough, if I'm doing sapele, I may take it up to 280 for 10 minute and 3-4 cycles letting it come back to room temperature between each.

Best, M



These users thanked the author Michaeldc for the post: Glenn_Aycock (Tue May 05, 2015 6:28 am)
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 20, 2015 11:25 am 
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Mine is simple too.


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 20, 2015 11:38 am 
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[quote="Ed Haney"] The spring loaded slats pull the heater tight against the wood for good heat transfer.

Image

I use bungee cords on both ends of my top slat. I think it helps with heat transfer and also helps to prevent cross grain ripples. The latter effect might be in my mind but seems to work for me...............!!
Tom

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 20, 2015 1:22 pm 
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Ed
I really like the idea of wrapping the steel slats in aluminum foil instead of the wood. But you didn't talk about that.


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 21, 2015 3:54 pm 
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Could I just use something like this?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dual-Digital-F- ... 8936&rt=nc

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 21, 2015 5:14 pm 
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Michael,

I'm loving your bender! Did you purchase the LMI bender and then buy another waist clamp and simply attach it to the jig? If so, how much does the additional waist clamp cost? They don't have it listed for separate purchase on the site. I already have the controller and plan on purchasing the bare bones bender this month, but would like to do the mod you've done to make it as versatile as possible out of the gate. Thanks for any info.

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 21, 2015 5:51 pm 
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Hi Chris

The only parts that are LMI are the blanket and the temp control. I designed and made the rest of it myself. If you want to talk more about it, PM me and I will send more pictures of it and we can talk about making you one.

M


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 21, 2015 6:16 pm 
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I'm in the Waddy / Pat camp - very simple mold with one-hand clamps doing lots of the work.


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 22, 2015 12:13 pm 
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Here is my first attempt. I made a couple of mistakes that need rectifying, The on-off switch cuts all the power to the controller so I can't see the temperature after I switch the heat off and I didn't incorporate a timer so I have to be mindful of how long it has been on. I have bought a 30 minute timer which should overcome both issues!


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 22, 2015 3:06 pm 
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Michaeldc wrote:
Here is my bender. It's a cross between an LMI, and a fox style bender. The blanket, slats, and temp controller are from LMI. The thing I like about the design is that I can simply loosen a couple screws and adjust it to any form I want. I currently have 5 guitar shapes, and a baritone ukulele form. It works like a champ!

Cheers, M


That is very impressive. Where did those towers come from? It looks like the lmi gear, but not exactly. For one, you have a cutaway tower. Where did you source those parts?


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 22, 2015 3:16 pm 
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rlrhett wrote:
Michaeldc wrote:
Here is my bender. It's a cross between an LMI, and a fox style bender. The blanket, slats, and temp controller are from LMI. The thing I like about the design is that I can simply loosen a couple screws and adjust it to any form I want. I currently have 5 guitar shapes, and a baritone ukulele form. It works like a champ!

Cheers, M


That is very impressive. Where did those towers come from? It looks like the lmi gear, but not exactly. For one, you have a cutaway tower. Where did you source those parts?


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All of the aluminum extrusions are sourced through 8020.inc. Everything else is done on my cnc machine.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 23, 2015 10:50 pm 
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Michaeldc wrote:

All of the aluminum extrusions are sourced through 8020.inc. Everything else is done on my cnc machine.



Cool. What is the black material? Looks like I'm going to copy you wholesale!


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 24, 2015 12:17 am 
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Tom West wrote:
I use bungee cords on both ends of my top slat. I think it helps with heat transfer and also helps to prevent cross grain ripples. The latter effect might be in my mind but seems to work for me...............!! Tom


I assume you have a Fox type bender that "floats" both ends of the of the side's "bundle" since you have bungees on both ends. Since my "bundle" (slats, heater, and side) is fixed down on one end, obviously only pull (springs) is needed on the one opposite end.

I believe the tension along the entire side length does help prevent ripples in addition to the faster and more even heat transfer.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 24, 2015 9:06 am 
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rlrhett wrote:
Michaeldc wrote:

All of the aluminum extrusions are sourced through 8020.inc. Everything else is done on my cnc machine.



Cool. What is the black material? Looks like I'm going to copy you wholesale!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


The black material is 1/2" HDPE sourced off eBay.


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PostPosted: Mon May 04, 2015 10:17 pm 
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Ed Haney wrote:
Barry Daniels wrote:
Ed, will your design work with a cutaway?


Barry,

I plan to do a cutaway on it. I believe adding one clamp with do it just fine. In fact, if you look at the big fox bender style in this thread above you see two large screw press clamps - one for the waist and one for the cutaway. This is a common apporach I've seen. I can simply add 2 additional holes in a cutaway shapped mold and add one more small clamp like my waist clamp to pull the wood into the cutway. So I'll bend, in order, the big bout, then small bout, then waist, and finally the cutaway.

By the way, often the small bout clamp is not needed since the springs pull the small bout wood tight against the mold. (Note that the spring lever arms are adjustable when needed for various mold sizes.) If the small bout clamp is needed due to some really stiff wood, then it is the last clamp tightened to pull the wood against the mold. It obviously has to remain loose untill the waist and cutaway are bent and tight in place.

Ed


Barry,
I built a cutaway mold as shown in the pictures below. One picture shows the mold with the regular side and one picture shows the same mold with the cutaway side.

Adding the one clamp/caul worked fine as I predicted above. It pulled the cutaway in easily. Again, the clamps are small and short.

The bending sequence was similar to regular sides. I bent the big bout and then temporally bent the small bout. Next the waist was bent. Then the small bout was released followed finally by bending the cutaway.

No problems.


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PostPosted: Tue May 05, 2015 1:21 am 
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Image
Or maybe just consider one of these. I call this the Mercedes bender. Charcoal lighter goes inside the pipe.


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PostPosted: Tue May 05, 2015 5:09 am 
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I think one of the things mentioned in some posts is of prime importance for good results from a bending machine.
Firm contact between the blanket, slats and wood to ensure good heat transfer.
I've just been bending EIR (290-310 deg F), and the results were a not so good as expected, in terms of springback, and I had come to the conclusion that this was the problem.
I use turnbuckles and spreader plates to tension the slats, but the aluminium plates had failed (heavy handed on the turnbuckles + too thin aluminium - now replaced) so I didn't have as much tension on the slats as previously.
Earlier results were better, before the plates failed.
Live and learn, but it's nice to have the confirmation.
Just touched up first of the sides on the pipe bender, I kind of like using it...

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Otherwise it could be from the word kitgut or kitstring. Kit meant fiddle, not kitten.


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PostPosted: Tue May 05, 2015 6:09 am 
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Glenn_Aycock wrote:
I've never used one of these types of benders, although I've seen commercial ones in the Taylor videos. I realize they are probably much more consistent, but how long does it take to bend a side? I recon it takes 30-45 minutes to heat my bender and bend a pair of sides by hand.



30 - 45 minutes isn't too bad at all for a pair of sides. I've done a side in 5 minutes on a pipe type bender, unfortunately the one before it took me 30 minutes. The first one took me 30 minutes because I hadn't bent any sides for a couple of months. In that particular 'session' I bent 3 sets. The rest took around 10 minutes each. I think that would be very close to the time taken on a bending machine. Don't forget that you will have more set up work with a bender. The Taylor benders are extremely fast but they obviously cost many pennies to develop.


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